Smoky Mountain National Park

A week in a forested wonderland


This year for our summer vacation we headed to Smoky Mountain National Park. Known as the most visited national park in the country, this park had not been on our radar as a place to visit despite being within reasonable driving distance of our home.

The trip was amazing.

General Tips

  • Gatlinburg is expensive and a major tourist trap. Unless you like that sort of thing, you don’t need to spend time there. Or maybe not more than a day. Our hotel was reasonable but food was expensive.
  • Hiking can be rocky with steep incline changes. Even "easy" hikes. Wear the right shoes and know your and your family's limits.
  • You will encounter bears and probably elk too. Read up on how to safely handle both and always stay at least 50 yards (150 feet) back.
  • In the summer, this region is very humid and can get hot. Always have plenty of water and wear synthetic clothes that dry quickly. We found it helpful to have both hiking shoes and water shoes/sandals for when hanging out around rivers or watering holes. Things will take a long time to dry so bring plenty of clothes.

Hikes

We did a number of hikes with varying degrees of difficulty. Our favorites were:

Hen Wallow Falls. This hike is 4.3 miles total but it’s a pretty intense hike. Lots of ups and downs and decently rocky. The last portion down to the falls is the steepest and definitely requires you be in decent shape if you want to get back up. But the reward is a beautiful waterfall.

Spruce Flats Falls Trail was another family favorite. The hike isn't long, but it is rocky and hilly. Most websites say this is an easy to moderate trail, but we are regular hikers and found it a little difficult. Lots of families with small children were on this trail and had to resort to carrying kids to navigate over narrow or steep portions. I would recommend not bringing a child under age 5 or 6 on this trail as there are portions that have steep drop-offs, made more dangerous by the muddy conditions. But this trail does end in a really nice swimming hole at the bottom of the waterfall.

Deep Creek Waterfalls Loop was the easiest of the hikes we did. This one is great for families with small kids, people who aren't avid hikers, or when you want something less intense. A portion of the trail is gravel, and all other parts are fairly easy to navigate and well marked. There aren't any crazy steep inclines, elevation changes, or drop offs. And you get to see THREE waterfalls during the course of the hike.

Cades Cove Scenic Loop is a great way to take in some spectacular scenery from the car (which we were happy to do after miles of hiking). It's an 11-mile loop with tons of places to stop and enjoy the views. It can take a couple of hours to complete and traffic gets pretty heavy during peak times, so don't expect to rush through it. But we had tons of bear sightings in this area and some beautiful scenic views. Take your time on this one and be prepared to make lots of stops.

Kuwohi Observation Deck is the best place to catch a sunrise in the park. Getting there in the early morning and hiking up to the observation deck seemed daunting when we decided to do it, but I am so glad we did. Keep in mind that you need to account for both the drive to the path that leads to the observation deck and then the very steep 1/2 mile walk up to the observation deck. The walk up is NO JOKE. The path is paved but it is STEEP; we're in great shape but were panting hard by the time we made it to the top, and it was a slow 1/2 mile walk. But catching the sunrise was 100% worth the effort. Just be cautious on the drive there in the early morning, as the roads are dark and windy and lots of wildlife will be out (it was our first encounter with an elk). Also, if it looks hazy when you start out, don't worry, the fog clears as fast as you can blink.


Activities

We did a variety of activities while in the area. These were our favorites.

Ziplining with Climbworks was really, really cool. Staff were great and we felt as safe as one can while zipping over the tops of trees. The views were unforgettable.

We did a couple of different tubing trips, but River Rats in Townsend, TN was our favorite. They have two river entry points (one of them is only for ages 13+) and for a flat fee you can go down the river as many times as you want. You start where your car is parked and then tube down the river, where buses come by every 10-15 minutes to take you back to the starting point. We went down a few times and it was really enjoyable and relaxing. Just make sure to buy a paddle before heading down the river. The paddle really helps.

For whitewater kayaking, we went with Wildwater and had a fantastic time. We did single duckies since we're a bit more experienced, but hired a private guide. Well worth the money to have someone help with river navigation and pointing out hazards. The section of the river we were on maxed out at class III rapids, but was mostly class II rapids throughout.

History

Cherokee, NC - Sovereign Nation of the Eastern Band Cherokee Indians is a must-visit when in this region. It is critical to learn about the original people of this land, people who are still here and thriving despite an incredibly difficult past. We started the day with a great breakfast at Peter's Pancakes and Waffles where we were also treated to some elk walking along the river.

Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center in Townsend, TN is another great historical spot. This museum featured artifacts from the lives of early European settlers in this region, including cabins that did a good job depicting the lives of those people who lived in this region.


Lodging

In Gatlinburg we stayed at the Park Vista Hotel. It's a little more than walking distance from downtown Gatlinburg but there is a trolley that runs to downtown. The hotel is a bit on the older side, but what makes it special is the views you get, as it sits way up on hill overlooking the Smoky Mountains. It was very reasonably priced.

In Townsend, TN we stayed at the Tremont Lodge and Resort. This place isn't crazy fancy, but it's fantastic for families. The property featured three really nice pools, which our kid loved, and a fire pit that you can make s'mores on. The rooms were nice because they were large and had a small stove and refrigerator. Overall, we liked staying on this side of town better; Townsend was quiet and had some nice coffee shops.

Our final stop in Bryson City, NC brought me to perhaps the most magical place I have ever visited - the Fryemont Inn. This is an historic inn that was built completely out of lumber by a lumber baron in 1923. At over 100 years old, it has been lovingly maintained and is clearly loved by many based on the number of long-time, repeat travelers we encountered here. Don't expect a Hilton; there are no TVs in the rooms and no air conditioning (although the latter is not needed thanks to the cool mountain air). But there's a lobby filled with games, a beautiful porch overlooking the Smoky Mountains, a TON of history, and some of the nicest staff you will ever meet. And the smell of the old wood is just incredible. Oh they also have a huge pool on the property, one of the biggest pools I have ever seen at a hotel.

But that's not all; there is also the food. When I made my reservation, I opted for the meal package. I had no idea what to expect, and quite frankly their menu does not do the place justice. There are a few select main courses and side dishes that rotate every day. THE FOOD WAS FREAKING AMAZING. The pecan crusted trout was out of this world, and the side dishes we had included homemade Mac n' cheese, lima beans, green beans, and mushroom casserole. We also had some of the best cheese & vegetable soup I've ever tasted. And then there are the cobblers, cooked from scratch DAILY. I have had a lot of good food in the course of my life, and this ranks right up there with the best of the best.

This place was truly one of the most memorable places I have ever stayed. I can't explain it, but there is just something so incredibly special about this place. I feel honored to have been able to stay here and hope to get back there one day again in the future.


Overall, this trip was more than we ever expected. We planned it a bit on a whim but everything went to plan. We got lucky with the weather, as it wasn't crazy hot or rainy. But this national park is really a gem. Many people seem to just drive through it but it's definitely worth taking a week or two to explore the whole region.


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